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89 SR Rear Hatch won't open!

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6 years 4 months ago - 6 years 4 months ago #21172 by whale driver
Nluk, Thanks for the diagrams. They are much needed. to answer your question: No the key will not turn in the lock as opposed to it working prior to this hatch stuck problem. Also, apparently none of my interior lights are working now. Do they operate off of a particular fuse?
Last edit: 6 years 4 months ago by whale driver. Reason: amplifier statement

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6 years 4 months ago #21174 by nluk100
Did you check fuse#25 (says for MY90-95) but check it anyway. Maybe your boot lock got changed and although the key fits it doesn't turn, or maybe the lock is seized internally? Either way you will need to remove it to check it.

'89 928 GT

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6 years 4 months ago - 6 years 4 months ago #21176 by whale driver
I want to thank all the forum members that offered advice and provided circuitry layouts. With that educational info I have finally resolved my stuck hatch failure. It was a combination of issues that had to be corrected. As I was once again not getting a whirring sound from the hatch motor, when pulling on the driver's switch, I discovered that the lead to the motor had once again disconnected. After reconnecting the lead, I still couldn't get a whirring sound. Researching the forum supplied electrical chart, I discovered that power to the motor travels via power board 7.5 amp fuse #24 (lighting) and which was blown. Evidence that the fuse was blown was indicated by lack of interior courtesy lighting. I replaced the fuse, which immediately blew and replaced it again with the same result. As a last result, I inserted a 10 amp fuse, the lights came on and I got a straining whirring sound as the motor forced the lock open! With the hatch now open, when I pulled the open switch, every thing operated normally. I could even open the mechanical lock with the key. Now the assumption was that the motor and circuitry were fine but the lock was binding. Checking how the hatch tongue entered the body latch opening, revealed that it was offset. I tried readjusting both of the lock assembly positions but the bolt holes were permanent and there was no allowance for movement. Finally, I checked the hatch side alignment and discovered, an uneven gap between the fenders and the hatch was causing the misalignment and binding. Now I just have to determine the procedure to make the hatch adjustment. Anyone that has made that adjustment have advice?
Last edit: 6 years 4 months ago by whale driver. Reason: word correction

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6 years 4 months ago #21177 by whale driver
Now that I have my stuck rear hatch question resolved, I have to get the hatch vs left & right body gap matched. I need advise on how to access the bolts/nuts on the upper hinges without ruining the panel/upholstery? Do I have to remove the panel holding the back sun visors? What is holding that panel to the hatch (how many screws/clips)? Do I have to remove some of the headliner forward of the hatch opening?

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